GRIFFENOMICS
ISSUE 1
14
LUXURY BRANDS
FACT:
IF APPLE INC. WAS A COUNTRY, ITS CASH RESERVES WOULD MAKE IT THE 58TH LARGEST ECONOMY IN THE WORLD
O
ne may be under the impression
that the recession, beginning
in 2008, affected everyone.
That is, everyone had to cut back on their
spending as they were under financial
pressure. The spotlight of the UK news,
in relation to the eects of the recession,
was on the type of British middle class
that shop at Sainsbury’s and Marks and
Spencer. However, this is far from the ac-
tual truth.
The two main areas of consumption
can be separated into utilitarian needs:
shelter, food and water. The second area
covers hedonistic needs: pleasure and
entertainment. Luxury goods are clearly
listed under hedonistic needs. Although
themiddle class consumers, whowere af-
fected by the recession, may occasionally
dip into the odd Louis Vuitton handbag
or a pair of Chanel heels once a year, the
major contributors to revenue for luxu-
ry retailers are the ‘super-rich’: people
who may have forgotten what tap water
tastes like. This group of people were
barely aected by the recession and may
even have benefited from it. They could
often exploit their workers more, due
to the large number of people searching
for work, through methods such as ze-
ro-hour contracts, which allow the em-
ployer to only pay for the hours that they
need their sta to work; thus, not paying
employees when there is a lack of de-
mand for labour during the recession. To
elaborate, salaries can be dropped due to
the excess supply of labour.
Although one might expect demand
for luxury goods to fall during recession,
the appeal of luxury goods and availabil-
ity has increased massively over recent
years. This is due to a mixture of factors,
includingmore aggressivemarketing and
advertising. For example, there has been
an increase in the hours of TV that peo-
ple watch and the eects of easier access
(online) for advertisers can be shown
by the higher number of stores around
the country and the development of re-
tail parks, such as Bicester Village near
Oxford. It is mainly the internet that
has revolutionised the access to luxury
goods. No longer is there a need to trav-
el hundreds of miles to pick up a pair of
socks from Versace. Even food from high
end food stores, such as Waitrose, can
now be bought fromyour couch and driv-
en to you. This is compounded by high-
er standards of living - £2,068 average a
month for a full-time employee before
tax in the UK in 2013, compared to an in-
flation-adjusted equivalent of £1,583 in
1980. One could also argue that the rise
in counterfeit luxury goods, whilst losing
retailers’ money, can raise the awareness
of their brand globally. In a way, it is al-
most free advertising if one assumes that
some people will be drawn to purchase
genuine items.
The relative impact of the recession
on luxury compared with other brands
was exemplified this winter, in the UK,
as Debenhams experienced a 25% drop
in expected profit and, as a result, their
chief financial o¢cer resigned over the
festive period. In comparison to this,
House of Fraser, a high-end version of the
store Debenhams, achieved their ‘high-
est ever gross profit of £403.8 million, up
£4.7 million’ for the 52 weeks leading up
to the January 26, 2013. Furthermore,
John Lewis reinforces this trend as on-
line sales are rising by almost 23 per cent
annually.
However, the main contributing fac-
tor to the success of luxury brands during
the recession has arguably been China.
China is the second largest luxury goods
consumer, behind Japan, and in 2010 ac-
counted for around 25% of the world’s
luxury sales. From 2008 to 2011, Chi-
na experienced an astonishing average
growth rate of 9.525%, compared to most
of Europe’s negative growth rates, such
as the UK’s record low of -6.80%, in the
first quarter of 2009. Without the rise in
China’s appetite for luxury due to their
economic prosperity, many brands such
as Louis Vuitton, Tiany’s and Burberry
wouldn’t have achieved such high prof-
its, such as Burberry’s £206.3 million in
2011.
In conclusion, luxury brands benefit
from the recession, since the richest sec-
tor of society is able to weather the eco-
nomic slump best, by exploiting workers
more in some cases and through the de-
mise of weaker competitors in the mar-
ket. In addition to this, the global demand
for luxury goods has increased over re-
cent years because of consumers’ rising
ability and willingness to pay for them.
Moreover, this is compounded by the fact
that consumers have easier access to in-
ternational designer brands, thus provid-
ing a wider range of choice to select from.
Finally, China’s rapid economic growth
has boosted luxury sales, whilst some
other countries’ growth rates decreased.
However, in the future, China’s contribu-
tion to luxury sales may decrease as their
economy’s growth slows even though it
is still looking stronger than most other
countries currently.
FURTHER READING:
‘Luxury Retail Management’
by Michael Chevalier and Michel Gutsatz
‘Luxury Fashion Branding’
by Uche Okonkwo
LUXURY THAT LASTED
Not every world-renowned business ended up like Lehman Brothers.
300
:
The approximate number of shops on Oxford Street